From St. Petersburg, the Moorhouse/Cittadino/Naaman group took
the high speed train to Moscow. It was a
bit of a harrowing departure as Helen, Benny, and Alex got stuck in a cab in
traffic and very nearly missed the train.
Fortunately they had the good sense to jump out of the cab, in the
pouring rain, and run to the station, jumping on the train just before it
departed.
The train was much like any of
the high speed European trains that we’ve taken over the past 2 years. The St. Petersburg-Moscow train line is the
most frequented by tourists, so everything was announced in both Russian and
English.
After arriving in Moscow and getting checked in at our
hotels, we met to find some dinner.
Helen’s parents are originally from Moscow, and her Dad has a particular
Russian chain that he always eats at when they visit. So we set off to find the nearest location of
Yolki-Palki. It was a bit farther walk than
we realized, but we eventually made it there and had a simple yet yummy Russian
dinner. We then did a bit of grocery
shopping for snacks, which made Helen and I laugh because we used to grocery
shop together in Norfolk years ago. We
never could have imagined back then that, one day, we’d be grocery shopping in
Moscow together, too!
Wednesday was set aside to visit the Kremlin. Prior to our visit, I really only knew of the
Kremlin as referring to the office of the Russian President, similar to how the office of the President of the United States is
often referred to as “The White House”.
So, in my head, I was expecting perhaps one or maybe just a few
buildings, similar to the White House in Washington, DC.
What we toured was bigger and more elaborate than anything
any of us anticipated. The Kremlin is an
ancient fortress within the city of Moscow.
The office of the Russian President is there, as are 4 cathedrals, 5
palaces, and numerous other buildings.
It is, simply put, HUGE. These pictures do not put into perspective how huge it is......and how even huger it feels when the temperature is somewhere in the mid 90's with little cloud cover.
We started our tour with a visit to the Armoury, where we saw treasures of the Kremlin, including gifts that were given to Russia over the centuries by other countries. The highlight of this part of the tour was definitely the collection of ancient carriages. We also saw beautiful gold and silver pieces, porcelain, elaborate dresses, weapons, and suits of armor (for people and horses). Unfortunately we weren't able to take any pictures, though.
We did, however, get a picture of the yellow building where the office of Vladimir Putin is located.
After the Armoury we toured several of the cathedrals off
Cathedral Square. These are all Russian
Orthodox churches, since this is the traditional religion of Russia. They were beautifully and elaborately
decorated.
At that point we were hot, hungry, and tired, so we decided
it was time to exit the Kremlin to find some lunch. We exited the Kremlin right onto Red Square,
with great views of St. Basil’s Cathedral.
It felt a bit surreal to be standing in front of such an iconic Russian
landmark.
We ended up in a restaurant just off Red Square, and as we
began our meal Helen heard a police car announcing that Red Square was
closing. No sooner was that announced
than we started to see squads of Russian policemen briskly walking onto the
square and starting to line 3 of its 4 sides (excluding ours). We weren’t quite sure what was going on, but
it definitely looked interesting and worth watching!
Over the next couple of hours, we watched as hundreds more
uniformed Russians arrived, the audio system played the Russian anthem over and
over, and all these uniformed Russians marched back and forth. The waiter explained to us in broken English
that it was a ceremony for students, and at one point we could see individuals
walking up to the front to salute someone, shake hands, and receive a
certificate. Watching the troops march
on Red Square while listening to the sweeping national anthem playing was
definitely a Russian experience we will never forget.
We ended our afternoon with a walk through one of Moscow’s
most famous and nicest shopping centers which is just off Red Square.
There we took one of my favorite pictures of
us so far….
On Thursday we returned to Red Square to tour Lenin’s
Tomb. While it was clear that Lenin’s
Tomb is a site of great significance for the Russian people, it felt a bit
strange to view Lenin’s body, which has been preserved since his death in
1924. It was a very somber place with
numerous military members to remind you to take off your hat, be silent, etc., and
the walk through the tomb lasted less than 5 minutes. Afterwards, we exited through memorials to
other important leaders.
From there we went on to tour St. Basil’s Cathedral. While we didn’t get to go up into any of the onion domes, we did see spectacular Russian Orthodox altars and
elaborate decorations. And one of the
best parts was listening to an acoustic group singing, their voices
reverberating throughout the different chambers of the cathedral.
We moved on to walk around the Kremlin and across several of
Moscow’s bridges. We enjoyed great views
of the Kremlin and other Moscow cathedrals (this city has a LOT of cathedrals).
Then we moved on to Novodevichy cemetery, where many famous
Russians are buried. Helen was excited
to find the graves of many of the Russian literary greats whose works she has
read. I am not as well-read in Russian
literature as she is, so I was content just to wander through the elaborate
tombstones.
We did see Boris Yeltsin's grave, as well.
The boys were getting antsy at this point, so I took all 3
of them across the street to a nearby playground, where they could play and
expend some energy.
Thursday evening, Helen, Alex, and I went to the Bolshoi
Ballet. The ballet performed was called
The Bright Stream, and it was a comic ballet, written in the ‘30s. It was centered around very Russian themes
and the storyline was a bit difficult to follow, but the dancing was
fantastic. The theater was a secondary
one (not the main historic Bolshoi theater) but was still beautifully
decorated.
While we were at the ballet, Bob took all 3 boys to
Hamley’s, an international toy store.
The store they visited is billed as Europe’s largest toy store, and the
boys were in heaven.
Afterwards, we all met up to visit Red Square, while it was dark, to see the lights and beauty of St. Basil's Cathedral one more time. The boys got to run around in Red Square....what a playground!
Friday, Helen, Alex, and Benny, headed on a day trip outside
Moscow. I woke up feeling really sick
and spent most of the day alternating between sleeping, trying to sit up, and
feeling like all I could was lay down.
I’m not quite sure what hit me, but it was brutal…even walking around our
hotel room took substantial effort.
In the morning, the boys hung out in the hotel room with me while Bob toured the Bolshoi Theater. It was a really small tour (only 20 people were allowed and no advance reservations were possible), but fortunately he got there early enough to get a spot. He was able to see the main theater, about 20 minutes of a full dress rehearsal for an upcoming production, dancers taking publicity shots, and lots more. It sounded like a memorable opportunity!
In the morning, the boys hung out in the hotel room with me while Bob toured the Bolshoi Theater. It was a really small tour (only 20 people were allowed and no advance reservations were possible), but fortunately he got there early enough to get a spot. He was able to see the main theater, about 20 minutes of a full dress rehearsal for an upcoming production, dancers taking publicity shots, and lots more. It sounded like a memorable opportunity!
Afterwards, Bob came back and took the boys to Gorky Park so
they could get outside (and away from sick me) for a while. Gorky Park is right in the center of Moscow,
and since it was about 33C (92F), the boys especially liked wading in one of
the large fountains.
My original plan for Friday had been to visit a number of
Moscow’s metro stations, since they are renowned for being some of the most
beautiful (and also some of the deepest) in the world. I started feeling a bit better in the late
afternoon, so we tried to do a shortened tour in the evening. At the first stop I started feeling a lot
worse and felt like I might pass out, so we quickly went back to the
hotel. While we didn’t see as many
stations as I would have liked, the ones we did see during our entire stay in
Moscow were certainly noteworthy.
This picture is a bit blurry, but you can get a sense of how long the escalators to/from the metro platforms were.
Once we got back to the hotel, I went immediately back to
bed and Bob took the boys to Helen's hotel, which had a panoramic bar on its
top floor. It was a bit hazy,
but the views of Moscow were apparently pretty good.
And with that, our time in Moscow was at an end. Moscow definitely felt different than St.
Petersburg. It is much bigger (almost 12 million residents, as compared to St. Petersburg’s population of about 5 million), for one
thing. It also felt less European and a
bit more…..Russian, I guess? Since I
don’t have much else to compare it to at the moment, perhaps I’ll have more of
a sense after we see more of this country.
I’m glad we stopped here, though!
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